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I wake up to the sound of the wind buffeting the cloth of my tent. Even though the sun is brightly shining, telling whether it is morning or night is impossible. I’m above the Arctic Circle, where in summer the sun never sets. Checking my watch, I see that it is 7: 30 a.m. I leave my tent and walk over to the mountain edge. Spreading out before me, branches of the Rapa River flow through the valley below. I’m in the remote far north of Sweden in Sarek National Park, a place with no roads or towns.
Sarek’s mountains used to be covered by vast sheets of ice. Around 9, 000 years ago, this ice melted, leaving behind about 100 glaciers. Soon after, reindeer began to arrive. Following the reindeer were the Sami people, who made this territory their home. Getting here is quite difficult, so apart from the Sami very few people have ever seen Sarek.
In 1909, Sarek was made a national park in order to keep the land in its natural state. Though the Sami are allowed to continue their traditional way of life in the park, no one else can live here, and all new development is banned within park boundaries. At the far side of the valley, an ancient Sami cottage is visible. Close by, there are a few reindeer feeding on grass.
For hundreds of years, looking after reindeer was a way of life for the Sami. They used the reindeer’s meat for food, their bones for tools, and their skin for making clothes and tents. Since reindeer were always on the move, the Sami would pick up their tents and accompany them. Today, most Sami have houses in villages near Sarek and live a modern life just like their neighbours.
But every spring, a small number of Sami still follow their reindeer into the valleys of Sarek, living in tents or old cottages and enjoying their traditions. I am not a Sami, but in Sarek I’ve adopted some of their habits. For example, this morning my breakfast is flat bread warmed over a fire, dried reindeer meat, and some sweet and sour berries that I found growing near my tent.
